Bud has been burrowing into his wine collection lately, and on Saturday he came up with a 2000 Domaine René Leclerc Gevrey Chambertin. It was literally a dark and stormy night (you would have thought we were bound to be swept away like Dorothy the way the weatherpeople spoke of it), and to me, a fine night for a Burgundy with a few years on it.The aroma was very rubbery at first, and tasted somewhat closed in. Bud, who said he paid $32 for the Gevrey about two years ago, passed swift judgment: "One or two years too old. Tart." I thought was only slightly overripe, with a long, dry finish and medium body (13 percent alcohol). It opened up an hour or so later, and I discovered notes of smoke and dried cherries. Bud seemed disappointed, but I found much to like: I guess I'm just a glass-half-full kind of girl.
