Friday, May 14, 2010

Teutonic Tonic

It was my first dance with Grüner Veltliner, that über-trendy white from Austria. You can hardly swing a cat around a restaurant wine list these days without running into a Grüner.
This one was a 2008 Grooner (I guess they didn't want Americans getting confused by an umlaut).
The things I loved? The cheeky label, the lightness of the wine (12 percent alcohol), the screw-top bottle, the reasonable price ($10), the lemony/leafy aroma, how much fun it is to say "Grüner." The things I did not love? The taste. It was just a little bland.
The label says, "If you like sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio, you'll love Grooner." Which I found strange since those two wines, in my mind, share only whiteness in common. Where sauvignon actually has something to say, pinot grigio is like a wallflower at the party.
I'd be happy to try another Grüner; maybe I'll have better luck next time.

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