Golly Gee! It's the Gamay-est

In my pre-wine-dork days, "Beaujolais" meant one thing: Beaujolais Nouveau, that infant wine of November we often drink at Thanksgiving. I still buy a bottle every year, just for old times' sake, but it has been a treat to discover the other, more complex Beaujolais wines. Over the weekend, I had a 2006 Joseph Drouhin Beaujolais-Villages ($11.99) and enjoyed it immensely. The B-V was, of course, 100 percent gamay grapes, and it is a winsome, likable wine. It is so versatile: I had it with a hearty grilled cheese sandwich (cheddar on whole wheat, with Dijon mustard), and the next day with a broccoli pasta dish. It's delicious to drink on its own, too, fresh and uncomplicated.