Friday, April 10, 2009

The Red Wines of Spain and Italy

Ten reds from two countries, then another bonus tasting after class, this time from the Australian wine commission. I learned that some Italian reds (Barbaresco, Brunello) are expensive because they are produced in such small quantities. My impressions:
  1. Marqués de Cáceres 2005 (Rioja-Crianza): A fresh, soft, light fruit aroma; high acid to begin, a jelly-like flavor, soft tannin but ultimately nothing special. Zraly calls this a "user-friendly" wine to have with fish. $13.
  2. Conde de Valdemar 2003 (Rioja-Reserva): Spice/pepper/raisin bouquet giving off strong alcohol; a good acid/tannin balance, developing into a tightly woven, intense taste; at the end, oaky tannins and low fruit. "Needs more aging." $23.
  3. CUNE Vina Real 1995 (Rioja-Gran Reserva): Scents of blackberry, plum, flint; a bright start, fresh-tasting, winding down to mild, soft fruit and a dewy finish. My favorite of the class. $$$ Collector's item. (Sigh.)
  4. Chianti Classico Riserva 2003, Marchese Antinori (Tuscany): Fresh but "slightly closed" bouquet; high acid, a bit drying on the back of the throat, tangy. This wine is "crying out for food," Zraly says; so he passed out small servings of parmigiano-reggiano. When tasted after cheese, this wine is smoothed of its "rough edges." (He's a huge fan of the producer: "You can't get better than an Antinori in worldwide status" in the wine world, Zraly says.) $25.
  5. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2005 Avignonesi (Tuscany): Sweet swell, a "kiss of oak," flowery; acidic and a bit austere. Avignonesi is a "top producer" in Tuscany. $28, a good value.
  6. Brunello di Montalcino 1997, Castello Banfi (Tuscany): Slightly sulfurous, "oxidized" aroma (not uncommon in wine with some age); sharp at the start but mellows to a soft end. (This producer owns the Riunite brand, which may have been my first experience with Italian wine.) Zraly says this is "at its peak"; this wine confused me. $100 and up/hard to find.
  7. Barbera d'Asti 2006, Michele Chiarlo (Piedmont): Full bouquet, notes of red cherry; slightly spicy, peppery, intense, but slips down to a velvety finish. A Beaujolais-style wine, and my second favorite that night. $14, a great value.
  8. Barbaresco 2001, Vietti (Piedmont): Woody, high alcohol aroma, a hint of roses; high tannin and acid to start, "too much of everything," then drops to an astringent end. Overpowering. Zraly says wine from the nebbiolo grape is an exception to the color rule for reds ("if you can see through it, it's ready to drink"); you can see through this one, but it needs more age. $125.
  9. Barolo 2001, Prunotto (Piedmont): Very fruity, very alcoholic nose, a hint of a bakery aroma; sour and very drying, almost burning on the tip of my tongue toward the end. "Tasting a young Barolo is like having your palate mugged," Zraly says. Prunotto is owned by the Antinoris (see above). $$$ Collector's item.
  10. Amarone Classico Superiore 2003 Allegrini (Veneto): Heavy, dried fruit, port-y aroma; very leggy; sweet, intense fruit, complex. This wine is made in a way similar to Sauternes, where the grapes are dried out first to intensify and sweeten the flavors. Needs a cheese course. $75.
Then, a nice, crisp Australian white: a 2007 Leasingham "Bin 7" Clare Valley Riesling ($16). Refreshing. Made me want a basket of fried oysters, somewhere under a beach umbrella.

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