Saturday, March 21, 2009

The Red Wines of Burgundy and the Rhone Valley


Well, the subject of Burgundy is pretty staggering. What it comes down to is you are really supposed to know about 1 gajillion towns, vineyards and producers to figure out where the good stuff is. And I used to think, hey, they're in France, so they must know how to make wine, right? We tasted 8 from Burgundy and 2 from the Rhone. Another useful hint I learned from Mr. Zraly: "If you can see through a red wine, it's ready to drink!"
  1. Beaujolais Villages, Louis Jadot 2007 (Beaujolais): A clear red, with a young raspberry/floral/yeast aroma; started pretty acidic, with a subtle fruit end. Drink slightly chilled, and eat fish with this one. $10/bottle.
  2. Fleurie, Georges Duboeuf 2007 (Beaujolais): Pale ruby, with earthy, dried fruit smell; a sharp zingy beginning, diving into a flat-ish finish. Pair with goat cheese. $12-15.
  3. Mercurey, Domaine Faiveley 2006 (Côte Châlonnaise): At last, a pinot noir: Pale red with pink edges, aroma of honey and leather; acidic, then blossoming into balance, dry at the end. $25.
  4. Santenay 2002, Joseph Drouhin (Côte de Beaune): A light brick with an "onion skin" edge, hint of vanilla; zippy, but very little fruit, out of balance. "In need of aging." $35.
  5. Beaune Clos des Mouches, Drouhin 1999 (Côte de Beaune): Light red, thin edges, a powdery, sweet, "dead leaf" scent; balanced, minerally, sweet fruit, an elegant glass. A few bits and pieces in this one; apparently as the tannin diminishes in older wine, it becomes sediment. At least $100.
  6. Gevrey-Chambertin, Bouchard Père & Fils 2005 (Côte de Nuits): Ruby with pale edges, leafy, buttery, minerally aroma; a clean start, bright and elegant with lingering fruit. A pinot noir aged in oak, and my favorite of this tasting. $48.
  7. Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots 2005, Maison Champy (Côte de Nuits): Subtle fruit/toast smell, a dry hit of oak that overpowers the fruit. $85.
  8. Clos de Vougeot, R. Dubois & Fils 2005 (Cote de Nuits): Medium red with bright edges, a woodsy, fruity bouquet with an alcohol slap; metallic, quickly drying, zero fruit finish. Out of balance, "needs to age." $75.
  9. Crozes Hermitage, Les Jalets, Jaboulet 2005 (Northern Rhone Valley): Dark red, a syrupy, peppery scent; fruity spice flavor, low acid in this 100 percent syrah. $20 (a great value -- "tastes like a $40 bottle.")
  10. Chateauneuf du Pape 2001, Guigal (Southern Rhone Valley): Brick color, a bit of a rubbery smell, a warming, slightly metallic taste. Steak with this one (no wonder I didn't like it). $A lot.

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